Hi,

What kind of treble buttons do you prefer? Metal or plastic? And for what reasons?
Any pros & contras?

Thanks a lot!

Plastic

Gus

It isn't the material the button sre made from, it is the shape and size. The metal buttons on my Le Capitaine are flat topped and I find that much better than the rounded platic ones I have experience with.

One problem, Ed Poullard was telling me that he can't find any metal buttons at this time. Some supply problem.

I prefer steel. It just feels slicker.

I've got boxes with both and I honestly don't notice a difference in playah-bility. It's purely a cosmetic issue to me.

Love 'em both!

R!CK

I'm like Mr. Reid there ... I have both and I like em both fine.

But if there is gonna be a shortage of the chrome caps... I wish there would at least be some color options (for contrast to some woods on the plastic caps), as opposed to just pearl white. Not that I am buying any new accordions in the forseeable future, nor any upgrade radical changes to the ones I have.

What about grey pearl, red pearl, brown pearl etc.

I suppose ya have to buy 10,000 in bulk to complete a transaction from the manufacture.... then your stuck with pushing white pearl caps till ya exhaust the majority of your inventory. I doubt these come in the bakers dozen. What about it builders?

Chrome and sweat on your fingers gives a nasty feel (like sanding paper, my experience). Maybe rounded top versus flat top is more important issue, I agree.
Ask the builder for his opinion.

Gus

I played a Jay Miller that had "black pearl" buttons on a black/charcoal colored accordion. Looked great and felt great. Maybe it was the curse!

I have boxes with both and I find that the chrome buttons can get uncomfortably cold playing outside in cold weather.

Also, your fingers tend to sweat and slip off of the metal buttons in hot weather. At least that is what I have found, and I don't sweat much! :)

DP

Try the .45 shell jackets

very large plastic buttons, black or black pearl

I have had steel and since I don't recall anything remarkable about them..I would not order a box with them

I have both, but I do like the metal slightly more than the plastic.

-David

Danny Dyson was telling me about a guy who had him make a set of buttons from Mammoth Tusk Ivory! He said they cut really smooth on the lathe and polished beautifully. Looked great when finished.

Why don't builders make their own buttons out of bone, horn, ivory, wood, etc? They already make the stop pulls.

Good observance. My first accordion had metal rounded top buttons. It was not my choice, just what this accordion was made with. I wouldn't have known better (metal or plastic or ivory) until I got my second accordion. There was a difference. The second accordion had some white flat topped buttons that even seemed a little concave. The tops of the buttons curved inward a little or maybe it was my imagination. They were more comfortable, playable, and less greasy and slippery due to oils in your skin. I haved looked at some older cajun accordions and their buttons were white and concave. I believe the chrome buttons are a newer option. More flashy. I do know this though. Every other accordion I've purchased since has the white flat top buttons by choice. They just feel better. I have let a couple of fellers that were used to playing on chrome play my accordions. They did prefer the flat top plastic or ivory. One guy even went and had his changed.
By the way, try to wash your hands and remove the oils on them before you play. Wipe your accordion with a very soft cloth when you see smudges or feel greasiness. I believe the skin oils deteriorate the clear coat faster, unless you like the used look with character and pealing paint. I hope you choose the plastic or ivory flat tops. I think you would be satisfied more with them.

Interesting ... The flat (even slight concave surface) to me has a great feel on my metal capped Bb... but I have not seen any white pearl caps that are flat top. Three other accordions I have with plastic pearl-esent are all rounded tops.

Talk about oils on skin and the builders finish and all.... A ways back there was talk about waxing accordions to preserve the finish. About once a year I take a high quality paste wax and go over the exterior wood of my accordions. It works fine, but the etching fills up with wax that needs to be cleaned once the wax has completely dried. The bigger problem for me is that one builder used a vegetable food color for stain (I think mixed with alcohol ) .. now it is faded into a color that's sorta pittiful. It has a nice wax job with a good exterior luster, but the color has faded dramatically from cobalt blue, to a blueish grey I don't know what'cha call it color (UV rays perhaps).

Nonc D

I think one would have to ask the accordion builder for the slight concave white buttons. I know they exist. It would then be up to how much the builder knows, or is willing to share.

Here's something else for ya. I know of at least one accordion builder in Louisiana that has a crazy technique for painting black accordions. He says it works better than the paint when it comes to black accordions. Get this. The paint job is done with a few (black marks alots) then finished with a clear coat. LOL, I guess it's the cost of marks a lots that's driving up the price.

Lincoln boot dye works better.

Or just buy analine dye... either water based or alcohol based from Woodworkers Supply

The right dye to use is an analine dye

Food coloring is well, food coloring

I would not have waxed my box..

wipe it off yes.. wax no

Ever ss a low quality paste wax.. me either...