Jeesh,I'm not talking about witch joint is stronger,I'm talking about craftsmanship integrity here, and how uninformed and consequently visually impaired a lot of us are.
BUT, I had my old "Acadian" with mittered corners side by side with a non mittered corners "Martin",and Craig you would have been the first one to notice the difference, because the Martin had a "LOT" of end grain showing as "THICK DARK LINES", and I'll spare you how many, but I'm sure you can count as well as I do , over twenty is it not?.
unfortunately, the decorative brass corners are not wide enough to "HIDE" this infortunate type of thing.
But with mittered corners, Junior could have avoided this, and more importantly, Craig, Mr. Martin certainly "KNOWS" what Craftsmanship is all about, and why he doesn't do miters ( and he certainly knows how to do them), and that's a shame.
I forgot to mention that Marc Savoy has asked his boxes fabricators to "ADD" decorative strips to each of the end panels outer sides ,thus "MASKING" the offending and unsighly butt joints, unfortunately, Mr. Savoy couldn't ask his parts purveyors to overuse the decorative strips ( as it is the case, now)elsewhere, so the "Ruse" is somehow redundand, and so the visually offensive end grain,show elsewhere .
Marc also stated that cypress is not good for boxes.
I love my cypress box. I may even make a violin from cypress just to check it out. I have to finish my current violin first though. my customer is getting antsy. Hopefully those with mitred cornerd boxes spend more time playing them than looking at them.
No need to be facecious here, after all you're a musical instrument maker,at least that's what your'e trumpetting here , so consequently I would have thought that you'll be the last one to oppose me on this very important topic.
Either you do not "KNOW" how to built a violin or a guitar as a luthier would do, that is adhering to centuty old fabricating thechniques, the same as using mittered corners in a wooden accordeon, keeping in mind that these 3 endeavours, "SHOULD" in "ALL" cases use craftsmanship techniques, gleaned trough "TRADITION" and arduous and demanding apprenticeship programs , or your'e the ever argumentator.
Come on, a guy with a bona-fide shop,and a luthier to boot( that is with the proper credentials) should know the differences , no brainer here.
I don't even wnant to think that as a craftsman, you've accepted mediocrity! .
Oak is heavy and dense. It tends to check as well. It has a higher level of silicates which dull tools more quickly. It does take a nice finish. I haven't heard of any favorable acoustical characteristics for it though. Now black locust is something to think about. C.F. Martin did some interesting research on locust as an alternative to endangered rainforest products. It lacks beauty but has favorable weight/strength ratio and acoustically similar to mahogany. I have some in my shop waiting for me to make a guitar, someday. My real job is keeping me busy. **** those terrorists! hopefully some day soon we will have the OK to donate our product to the Katrina Relief effort for the detection of food/water borne pathogens as well as chemical toxins. The Gov't. won't take donations so a private group is clearing the way.
Stay safe,
Craig
For Claude's benefit, I am invoking the famous Canadian 'notwithstanding clause'...
Notwithstanding the comments about Marc's recent work mentioned by other Braves below; I have a 1998 Acadian in 'C' that is a monster box. Having played a recent example of Marc's from late a 2005 production, I found little difference between them, other than the newer box is louder, required less bellows movement and seemed to have better button reponse with less pressure on the buttons.
I love my Acadians. I've tried lots of accordions, but they are my favorite by far. I've played on at least 20 different Acadians and I loved them all.
I really like Falcons and Point Noire too, but alas, can't have em all