Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Is it possible to refinish an accordion?
Anything is possible if one is willing to pay for it. So if you would want to make a blue accordion natural or a lighter color much work is involved. Less work is necessary to make that same accordion a black one but still requires pretty much labor. In my experience Anline dyes usually don't fade very much unless the accordion would be stored near a window out of its case. Then it should not fade a whole lot. The much used food dyes do fade to a much greater degree even in less light. Now while I have never used food dyes I make no claim to know who may or may not have used them. Concerning the faces that have been covered with veneer. If they were done right in the begining one should not have any problem striping them. Follwing are the steps I use to finish the end plates (faces) 1. Glue veneer onto the end plates. 2. drill holes in end plates. 3. Engrave logo and scrolls. 4. Apply several coats of finish, depending on the veneer this may require 12 to 18 coats. 5. sand smooth. 6. Apply gold leaf (22k) to logo and scrolls. 7. Lightly sand and mount into frames. Final finishing is done when the accordion body is completed then keyboards, corners etc are mounted onto the accordion.
I have a fairly well used LA box I bought a about a year ago. There are finish issues on it Ive been wondering about repairing. Specifically it looks like someone had been prying up one of the stops with a butterknife. Areas around the mets rod are scuffed up pretty good. Im wondering if there is a way to get the rods out and plug the holes while I take down the wood on that part of the box and refinish it ??
Also, on the sticking stops issue, anyone have any idea about maybe getting just a little bit of soap on there to loosen it up? Im not looking to blow bubbles or anything but I doubt it could really harm the box ??
Removing the clearcoat is the messy part. Food coloring stain can be drawn to the surface with a damp towel first. An oxidizer will then eliminate the color. I have not used a bleach solution, but Oxi clean works in dillution as well as lab cleansers. Aniline dye, which is very hazardous, is colorfast when lightstruck and is what many gibsons are colored with. It is added to the lacquer as opposed to staining first. Try the coloring on scrap, and then try removing it.
It has worked for me on a variety of stringed instruments that used a water based dye.
I would just live with it on a box though.
Craig